What Hispanic Heritage Month catering covers: more than twenty countries, not one taco lunch
The reflex order is a taco bar on a Tuesday in September. It is a good lunch. It is also standing in for Spain, Mexico, Central and South America, and the Spanish-speaking Caribbean: more than twenty countries, about as many kitchens.
They cook nothing alike:
- Peruvian: lomo saltado, beef seared in a wok with soy and vinegar, beside ají de gallina
- Cuban: ropa vieja braised in tomato and pepper, with black beans, rice, plantains
- Argentinian: skirt steak and chimichurri, plus empanadas baked rather than fried
- Spanish: tortilla española in cold wedges, patatas bravas, pan con tomate
One chef we interviewed put it flatly: Peruvian food could not be more different from Mexican. A lunch picks one. A month does not.


