What Irish American Heritage Month catering gets wrong: corned beef and cabbage came off a New York butcher counter
The office orders corned beef and cabbage in March. Order it. The story is better than the reputation.
Ireland’s version of that plate is bacon and cabbage: cured pork, boiled potatoes, no beef anywhere near it. The families who crowded onto New York’s Lower East Side found pork expensive and rent worse. A few doors down, kosher butchers were curing beef brisket in barrels and selling it cheap. So the cooks bought brisket, boiled it the way they had always boiled the bacon, and set the cabbage beside it.
Two immigrant kitchens on one block produced the most Irish dish in America. The rest of the Irish table stays unordered.


